I mentioned in my previous post that I hired a bike to see the island. One of my better decisions. Firstly, two wheels allows you to cover much more ground than two feet. If I had more time there, I would've taken more pleasure in walking some more of it (there are many areas, some of which I explored - and got lost in - where you can only venture on foot). But my time being limited, the bike allowed me to see more of the incredible scenery as I whizzed past. Which brings me to the second bonus of the bike. Some of the paths, especially those en route to the southern Rue Lighthouse, are practically perfect for bikes. The road twists and turns past the mirror-like lochs so you can coast down through bends like a racer. The sheep slowly turn their heads with a look of contempt. I expect they've seen it all before. It's a good job that sheep were my only company as I think, for the first time since I had spokey dokes on my bike, I let out a 'Weeeeeee!' as I navigated a descent. As for the hills, they're just right. They give you enough resistance to push you into a challenge as you climb them, and then you can release the lactic acid in your overworked legs as you sail down the incline. It's perfect.
All the cycling led me to Rue Lighthouse. There, I ditched my bike at the fence and headed down a gravelly path. My reward at the end was azure blue sea sparkling in the unrelenting sunshine; a carpet of luscious green grass being grazed on by sheep, cows and their babies; the remnants of a stone building surveying the sea, the lighthouse and the cliffs beyond; and then sat in the shallows of the shore and on protruding, craggy, black rocks were a colony of grey seals. At first I didn't see them because they blended in to their perches so well, but then they started bending like bananas and their coal-like eyes watched me as I navigated a safe path closer to them. I sat a comfortable distance, so as not to alarm them and unpacked my picnic. Sat watching this scene of nature at its finest, eating my goodies, I felt like I'd been transported to the pages of a Famous Five book; it was enjoyment at its purest. And when the seals started chatting to each other, I could've been on another planet. The fact I went a few hours without seeing another human was bliss.
That feeling of being part of Enid Blyton's world continued as I made my way back to civilisation and to Rathlin Island Hostel. It's the only hostel on the island and has only been open a year. But again, at the risk of boring you, it's perfect.
Patsy welcomed me in and gave me the tour. She was so lovely and friendly, and that continued throughout my stay. When we ran into each other as I was returning to the ferry later, we chatted like old friends. As for the hostel, it was clean and comfortable with a free breakfast: everything you need. But it's the location that sets it apart. To watch the sun set behind the cliffs, across the stunning sea was a delight. And then to wake up to the same sparkling sea out of the bedroom window was like no other place on Earth.
Whilst the morning air was still crisp, I took another walk. I once again passed the seals in the harbour and bade them a good morning. The walk I took then up to the Old Coastguard Station showed me another side of the beauty of the island. And this morning, the winds had dropped and, for a moment, I seriously felt like I was the only human who existed. The sights, sounds and cool spring air literally took my breath away. It seemed like magic was in the air.
My only negative of my trip was that unfortunately, I was too early in the year to see the renowned Puffins. Not to worry; it gives me the perfect excuse to return another time. Not that I need an excuse.
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