Sunday 24 May 2015

The Secrets of Rathlin Island (Part One)

When one of my best friends moved to Northern Ireland, I did some reconnaissance to see which places I should visit when I went to visit her. The place that interested me most, almost with a magnetic draw, was Rathlin Island. It's an L shaped island off the Northeast coast of Ulster with a population of about eighty people. My mantra being 'Life is better by the sea' and with my fascination of the magic of islands in general, I knew I had to visit. Last summer, when I first ventured to Northern Ireland, I ran out of time to set aside enough to visit the island. On my most recent trip, I made it there.

Fortune was smiling on me as I boarded the ferry from Ballycastle to Rathlin. The weather had stayed fine after the Easter weekend and the sky was blue with a thin scattering of wispy clouds. It was still cold, but the sun was shining which made it the type of day the air catches your breath in thankfulness that you get to enjoy this day on such a beautiful planet. The ferry was industrial; I shared my viewing spot on the deck with a road repair truck and its crew that were heading to the island. I spent the entire 45 minute journey at the edge of the boat, feeling the salt-spray on my face and squinting into the sun at the island getting ever nearer as we jumped the sapphire blue waves. The crossing wasn't calm, but the rhythm of the waves was life affirming as I kept my balance with no hands. When I needed to lean, I grabbed hold of the cold, weathered metal of the side of the boat. Hours later, I could still smell the metallic tinge of the seafarer lingering on my hands.


I had a hunch that it would happen as soon as I saw it, but then as I set foot on Rathlin Island, I knew it: I had fallen in love with the place. It was love at first sight. But then I kept discovering hidden gems and tiny foibles of my dear amour.

I skipped off the ferry, full of the joys of a spring adventure. I strolled through the harbour area and past the sparkling bay edged by white stone and seaweed. As I passed people they said hello; even the two drivers who passed me waved. I stopped in the tiny museum on the side of the bay. The lady was so helpful and welcoming and suggested I head up to the cycle hire to increase my adventuring capacity. The cycle hire on Rathlin Island is basically a lady called Jennifer who operates out of her garage. She was also very friendly and gave me lots of tips of where to go and what to do. I had to check with her twice when she told me I could just leave my bike at the end of a path when I had to continue on foot. Life on Rathlin isn't concerned with petty bicycle thefts. Where everyone knows everyone, who's going to steal?

It was stood by her garage that I bore witness to a very secret resident of Rathlin. I was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of the famous Golden Hare (no, I'd never heard of it before either). Nonetheless, I was enthrallled by the little fella. I had to use Jennifer's binoculars and have her friend talk me through exactly where to look, but I found him! He's a handsome hare with a light coat and blue eyes. It's a genetic anomaly only found on Rathlin, and he doesn't appear that often. They told me the Countryfile team staked out the area for a good length of time and still failed to catch sight of him. And here I was almost stumbling across this secret! He sat up and looked just like Peter Rabbit.

And from then on it got even better. I haven't even told you about the cycle routes that take you into another world, the hostel that has the best view to wake up to and the noisy residents of the harbour. Maybe they're for another tale. I almost feel like I shouldn't write about my time on Rathlin because it was so perfect and magical. I don't want to spoil the place by sending everyone there, but at the same time, its tranquility, natural magnificence and the friendliness of the residents there deserves to be experienced by people. It was just the positive opportunity I needed at that point and I loved every second of it.